Sunday, 18 July 2010

Final day - St Paul to Cerbere






Swept across the villages to the north west of Perpignan, including the amusingly named 'La Tour de France', and stopped for a swift drink in Millas. Today, being Sunday, there was a nice leisurely feel. The plane trees looked better than ever and the landscape had changed again - vineyards dominating.
Speeds were high up front as a few of us blazed a trail into Elne for lunch - one of my favourite spots up on the remparts by the abbey.
After lunch we pressed on as we smelt the finish even though it was still thirty miles away. We all regrouped a mile outside of Cerbere and donned our yellow Journey for Jane shirts and then proceeded into the village in two by two formation - bit like Noah's Ark in a way.
We arrived to the sound of vuvuzulas and applause - such was the welcoming from friends, family and locals. Even the drivers in the 1/2 mile tailback behind us seemed cheerful.
So just when we thought it was all over and I settled down for a beer with the Mayor half the team carried on the frontier just to say they'd been to Spain. Very good. Would I do it all over again? ...at the first available opportunity. With the same people? .... definitely, everyone, without exception! A bientot!

Day 8 - La Salvetat Sur Agout to St Paul de Fenouillet




100 miles today and for many the toughest. Descended from the mountains down to the intense heat of the Corbiere hills. Fantastic descent, 12k, into St Pons - during which the vegetation changed 100% from meadows to Mediterranean garrigue - even went through a village called garrigue. Doesn't get much more garrigue-like than this I thought. Must have been the heat.
Brief refreshments in the Place de la Fontaine in the village of Ajain, nice place, will be going back there - liked the look of the local eatery.
On through Olonzac ( sounds like a drug, could used some actually) to Lezignan Corbiere for lunch - one or two shifty characters loitering here so kept an eye on the bikes. Matt spent his lunch time rebuilding Tim's wheel - seriously impressive. But in the afternoon the action started. The Corbieres is Cathar country - you know Knights Templiers and all of that relgious Da Vinci code stuff. But from a strictly cycling perspective while there are cathar castles to marvel at the natural gorges really do take the honours. I suppose it is the remoteness and inaccessibility of the region that made an ideal bolt hole for the knights - believe me I've not been to a remoter part of France and I've seen a bit of the country I'll have you know! The piece de resistance has to be the Gorges de Galamus - just go there and see it!
Totally knackered on arrival, few frazzled temperaments, but nothing that didn't pass as quickly as it came. James did 30 or 40 miles today as well.

Day 7 - Rodez to La Salvetat Sur Agout





It was hot, hot, hot today and given that we were at 1000+ metres most of the time our tyres started to play up. One of mine blew a valve - I think it was the combination of the heat and the external air pressure - one of laws of physics if I remember correctly. So take my advice and lower your tyre pressures if your heading up,up, up. Same thing was to happen to Steve later as well.
We also had probably one of the longest climbs in the afternoon to the town of Lacaune - tough on the feet in my case. But were rewarded with a 10k downhill at the end of the day to La Salvetat. Now this place is a bit of a find, high up, in the woods by a 11km long lake - lake beaches, watersports and apparently skiing in the winter. Friendly hotel with bar and restaurant - one of the best places to end up. Also it was the captains birthday so that meant champers all round. Excellent day and excellent evening.

Day 6 Argentat to Rodez



Not the longest but one of the toughest days for me.
Really starting to take this beautiful country for granted now - not really, but more stunning scenery and getting hotter and hotter, 37 degrees in the afternoon.
Crossed the Lot river today, probably steepest climb yet but not too long. Last 30 miles was a drag from Decazaville to Rodez - road works, loose chippings, loads of traffic and HGV's and one serious vertical climb that found a lot of us out, especially as water was in short supply for some. Semih was delayed briefly as he witnessed a nasty road accident further back and stopped to help out which was fair enough.

Arrived in Rodez just as mass demo was happening, not sure what about but suspect it had something to do with pensions.

Liked Rodez, bigger than I expected and definitely full of life, good for the lads and the Captain. Dinner at the local Turkish kebab house which made a change. Shared a room of 5 tonight which was a bit sweaty but ok - I'm sure you really wanted to know that!


Day 5, serious business started today






Hills, mountains, distant volcanoes, rivers, barrages, forests, beautiful villages, logging, military exercises, wind farms - incredible views - we had it all today. Sunshine, serious southern heat, blistering views from start to finish. Everyone was gobsmacked, expectations were exceeded, morale held up even though the climbs were constant and lengthy. Really impressed by everyone especially Ahmet and Enis who I spent much time with. Photo stops were the order of the day - at every turn there was something worth stopping for but we couldn't of course. Destination today was Argentat on the Dordogne river - beautiful spot after a long 45mph descent. Great hotel (Le Sablier de Temps), great food, arrived in time for a swim, and to watch England v Slovenia (or was it it Slovakia?) in the village bar

Day 4 - Chateauroux to Aubusson




Today was great. The sun was out from the start and the countryside became greener, lusher and hillier. The roads were quieter, last night was really nice, everyone seemed happy. We even had a major bike repair done by the bike shop opposite the hotel yesterday evening inside an hour on the spot. Don't always believe what the expat bores tell you about the French 'demain' culture!
Pat and Lis came up trumps with what was to become the first of everyday picnic lunches - this time in the village square at Bonnat - really was the business specially when coupled with a coffee in the adjacent town bar.
After lunch the scenery was just brilliant, one memorable scene for me being cycling pretty much alone except for two of the most beautiful horses running alongside me in a field for about 1/2 mile. I remember thinking that life doesn't get much better than this.
We arrived at Aubusson and stayed in the Hotel de France - a character hotel in a small town in a steep valley. The hotel manager was a weird, money grabber but I've got to say the lamb parmentier was up there as once of the best main courses yet. By the way Aubusson is famous for rug making, property was ridiculously cheap, but the clothes shops in the centre were hideously expensive - there are some-things in life, especially in France, that I just don't get!


Day 3 Vendome to Chateauroux



We had little choice today but to follow a busy D road practically all the way. It was straight, busy but fast and smooth. The terrain was flattish all day but still interesting. We crossed the Loire at Blois - a city I remember from 30 years back. Great, grand architecture - palatial, regal buildings but we had no real time to explore as we were doing best part of 90 miles. Over the river things gradually quietened down and the grey skies gave way to sun for a while. Still remained cool with a northerly tailwind which continued to help us maintain decent speeds. Lunch at Selles sur Cher - pizza all round, pretty good too, even if Madame was less than impressed by our late arrival ( e.g. after twelve thirty!). All was good until Valencay, thirty miles from the end when James had accident number two, falling off and dislocating his shoulder. This time meaning an ambulance to A&E in Chateauroux. Actually this was a massive disappointment for him which was a real shame - as although it was fixed it meant the end of the cycling pretty much for him. Stayed at the Hotel Amarys which although being a chain was good, really friendly and just what we needed. Rarely enjoyed a cold beer as much. C U tomorrow for more!